Whatever Became of the Chesterfield?

For anyone who spent time in Palm Beach over the past several decades, it is a question many of us have quietly asked. The Chesterfield Hotel was home to the legendary Leopard Lounge, where live music, familiar faces, and memorable evenings made it one of the island's favorite gathering places. We were among those who returned often and, when the hotel closed, wondered what would become of this Palm Beach landmark.

Originally opened in 1926 as The Vineta, the beautifully restored hotel has returned to its roots while embracing an exciting new chapter. Gone is the intimate Leopard Lounge that so many of us remember, replaced by a brighter, more relaxed sense of quiet, refined elegance that feels perfectly suited to today's Palm Beach.

So, on a rainy Saturday evening, Amy and I joined our good friends, Les and Michelle, for dinner at Coco's, the hotel's signature restaurant, eager to discover what had become of an old favorite.

Rain had settled over Palm Beach as we pulled up to the corner of Cocoanut Row and Australian Avenue. A valet was already waiting with umbrellas for the ladies, escorting them through the drizzle and into the hotel while we followed close behind. It was a gracious gesture, setting the tone for the evening that followed.

The transformation was immediately apparent. The dark, intimate Chesterfield of years past had given way to something altogether different. The lobby was airy and inviting, furnished more like an elegant Palm Beach living room than a traditional hotel. Soft creams, subtle blues, natural textures, and comfortable seating created an atmosphere that felt relaxed without sacrificing sophistication.

We were warmly welcomed by the hostess and escorted to a table overlooking the dining room, giving us an ideal perspective from which to appreciate the restaurant's lively yet relaxed atmosphere.

From our vantage point, we were able to appreciate the restaurant in its entirety. Warm coral tones, tropical accents, and the beautifully illuminated ceiling reliefs created a dining room that felt distinctly Palm Beach. Just as appealing was the crowd itself—a lively mix of younger couples, families, longtime Palm Beach residents, and hotel guests. Stylish without being self-conscious, the atmosphere was energetic and welcoming.

As we settled into our table, another detail caught my eye. Looking up, a sculpted leopard emerged almost imperceptibly from the beautifully detailed ceiling, surrounded by graceful palm fronds and birds in flight. It was not flashy or theatrical. Rather, it felt like a subtle throwback to the legendary Leopard Lounge that once defined the Chesterfield. For those who remember the hotel's earlier chapter, it was a quiet reminder that while the building had embraced a new identity, it had not forgotten its past.

Amy selected the Coastal Rose Gentian, an elegant blend of vodka, passion fruit, vanilla, peach, and sparkling rosé Champagne. Beautifully presented with a chilled sidecar of sparkling rosé, it struck a lovely balance between bright tropical fruit and crisp citrus, with just enough effervescence to keep it refreshing rather than sweet.

Michelle and I both chose the Honey & Blush. Although gin-based, the cocktail never allowed the juniper notes to dominate. Instead, they provided a subtle botanical backdrop to the honey, citrus, and sparkling rosé, creating a beautifully balanced cocktail that was light, refreshing, and surprisingly approachable—even for those who do not typically gravitate toward gin.

Les rounded out the quartet with the Julep Time, a contemporary take on the classic mint julep. Served in the traditional frosted metal cup and crowned with fresh mint, it was as visually appealing as it was refreshing.

Before we even opened our menus, the kitchen welcomed us with a whimsical amuse-bouche—a single green grape coated in cream cheese and finely crushed nuts. It was an unexpected and playful opening note that hinted at the attention to detail that would continue throughout the evening.

Michelle's Spanish sole, Coco's interpretation of the classic Dover sole, proved to be the standout entrée of the evening. Delicate, perfectly prepared, and remarkably light, it was one of those deceptively simple dishes that succeeds because every element is executed flawlessly.

Amy chose to make a meal of two appetizers. The gazpacho arrived with the vegetables presented separately before the chilled tomato soup was poured tableside in classic fashion—a presentation as enjoyable to watch as it was to taste. Her avocado with crab was equally satisfying, substantial enough for dinner while remaining bright, fresh, and delicious.

Les and I both settled on the Black Truffle Tagliatelle. Prepared perfectly al dente, the pasta allowed the earthy character of the black truffle to complement rather than dominate the dish. The restraint shown by the kitchen resulted in a beautifully balanced plate rather than an overpowering truffle experience.

Throughout the evening, service was polished and attentive without ever becoming intrusive. Courses arrived at a leisurely pace, allowing ample time for conversation among friends—exactly as an evening like this should unfold.

As satisfying as dinner had been, none of us was ready for the evening to end. Since Les and Michelle were celebrating a milestone anniversary that week, we made our way back to the hotel's beautiful bar for one last toast.

Graceful curved archways framed the room, drawing your eye toward a long, beautifully appointed bar, while the subtle lighting created an atmosphere that encouraged guests to linger. It has the feel of a place you have somehow stumbled upon rather than simply walked into—a hidden corner of Palm Beach where the evening seems destined to last just a little longer.

As we finally made our way toward the valet, one last detail caught our attention. Printed on the valet ticket was a QR code that, with a quick scan, alerted the staff to have our car waiting at the entrance. It was a small touch, but one that perfectly reflected the attention to detail we had experienced throughout the evening. Even though the rain had long since stopped, it was a fitting final impression.

As we drove home that evening, we could not help but reflect on how fortunate we are to call this area home. Places like Coco's remind us that some of the finest dining experiences are not found only while traveling—they are right here in our own backyard.

The evening was a pleasant surprise, not because it tried to impress us at every turn, but because it did not. Nothing was overdone. Nothing was overstated. Every element—from the room itself to the service, the cocktails, and the cuisine—came together effortlessly. Coco's delivers quiet, refined elegance in a relaxed and welcoming setting. It is simply fine dining as it should be.

Every destination has a story. Every memorable evening leaves an impression. Our hope is simply to share the experiences that make us smile and inspire us to explore. Subscribe and follow us @ Whiskmeawayblog.com

— Ira Pearlstine & Amy Smith